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Friday, November 28, 2014

Kandy

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        The 60-mile drive from Colombo up to Kandy (elevation 1,600 feet) was a pleasant one in 1985, with discrete towns scattered along a rural highway. By 2000, the corridor was almost solidly built-up, and the road was seriously overloaded. Kandy itself, the island's capital from 1693 until the British conquest in 1815, was bursting, too. Statistics don't support that claim very well: they show the city with 32,000 people in 1920 and about 110,000 now. But that figure is only an estimate--the last census was in 1981--and in any case the city is physically small and very congested.


A curiosity along the road to Kandy. This is at Kadugannawa Station, at the summit of the climb up from the coastal plain. The column is a copy of the Duke of York's column in London and was erected to commemorate the completion of the road from Colombo to Kandy.


The plaque honors the road's builder, a Captain Dawson.


A bit of context: the hills around Kandy are often magnificently terraced.


Another paddy scene, this one east of Kandy, near Mahiyanganna.


A bit of flat land a few miles east of Kandy. Notice the concrete path, as well as the power poles. Rural transformation comes in increments large and small.


South of Kandy, the land rises too high for rice. Early in the 19th century, British planters built a coffee economy here, but it was annihilated by disease and replaced by tea. Sri Lanka exports about $600 million worth of tea these days. That's a lot, by most measures, but less than a quarter of the value of manufactured exports. Manufactures? Think of all those shirts and slacks with the little "Made in Sri Lanka" label.


The great river of the island is the Mahaweli Ganga, shown here on the northern edge of Kandy--more precisely, from the Katugastota railway bridge.


The only water feature in the town itself is Kandy Lake, a reservoir built in 1807. The view here is from the modest spillway east toward the Dalada Maligawa, the "Temple of the Tooth," probably the most important Buddhist relic on the island. The town proper is to the left.


Fifteen years later, the grounds had been cleared and cleaned.


By the standards of the Raj, the cemetery's a tiny one.


Government buildings of that era.


The same street, as of 2000 marred by the same kind of barricades used in downtown Colombo at that time. They protect the Temple of the Tooth, to the immediate left. Behind the trees, the lake. All those signs in the center?


The vegetation is spectacularly thick.


A pond with bamboo and benches.


Working elephants used to be common in Kandy. They were less so in 2000, when this picture was taken. Chains held this one virtually spread-eagled.


Fifteen years earlier, a happier elephant carried his lunch to work in the woods.


Meanwhile, back at the barricades: here they block off what had been the main lakeside road past the Temple of the Tooth. In the background, the Queen's Hotel.


Another view. The congestion is impressive.


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